July 2025- Central Atolls Maldives and Sydney
- theurbanshark
- Jan 31
- 10 min read
14/7/2025- Maagari
Max Depth: 26 metres
Time: 36 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
First dive of the Maldives trip. I found a half-priced Maldives liveaboard and booked it. Very exciting for me as I hadn't solo-travelled or done a liveaboard before. Had also bought an Osmo Action 5, so I was keen to take that for a spin. For a check dive, this site was very good. It is essentially a mound of coral rubble, sloping steeply up from about 25 metres to 5 metres, with some blocks of reef off the bottom of the slope. Upon entering the water, the first thing I saw was a pair of Mobula rays, a great omen for the trip, which made appearances throughout the dive. Aside from them, saw some lionfish and a Lisas Mantis Shrimp, plus an abundance of tropical fish that I only see in ones and twos during summer back home. Was also just enjoying the novelty of diving in water nearly twice as warm as what I had left in Sydney.
14/07/2025- Lankan Manta Point
Max Depth: 23 metres
Time: 43 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Moved over to a site off of some resort. Was a sloping reef with some big bommies, levelling off at about 30 metres. We had come to see mantas, and there were two huge ones getting cleaned on one of the bommies. Have only ever seen juvenile mantas or big ones from boats, so seeing a fully grown adult in the water was awesome. They are massive. Aside from the mantas, I saw a Blacktip Reef Shark, a Hawksbill Turtle and a pair of territorial Giant Morays competing for territory. Great dive.
14/7/2025- Nassimo Thila
Max Depth: 25 metres
Time: 37 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
A bit of a dud considering the standards set by the dives earlier in the day. The site was a Thila, which is a pinnacle rising from the lagoon floor. Once we dropped over the side of the Thila we encountered a moderate current. The dive was very gloomy, especially past the 20 metre mark. Highlight of the dive was the very nice soft corals in the overhangs which kind of cut into the sides of the Thila. Very fishy dive as well, but nothing special.
15/07/2025- Dhonfanu Thila
Max Depth: 28 metres
Time: 40 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Crossed to Baa Atoll, which is famous for Hanifaru Bay and the population of Mantas which is found there during the wet season. This Thila was action-packed. Upon descending, the first thing I saw was a cloud of fusiliers, with the silhouettes of Grey Reef Sharks scything through them. When we reached the top of the Thila, we saw a Hawksbill Turtle immediately feeding on soft corals. At this site there is a swim through covered in Gorgonians, sponges and soft corals which begins at 15 metres and comes out at about 28 metres. When we emerged from the swimthrough, we saw a dogtooth tuna go into hyperspace chasing some baitfish, awesome! That and the constant presence of abundant Grey Reef Sharks, trevallies and some huge Napoleon Wrasse made this an awesome dive. Was also plenty of cool, smaller stuff like Garden eels on the sand.
15/07/2025- Khihindafaru Thila
Max Depth: 30 metres
Time: 46 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
This dive was a bit boring. Maybe the current wasn't going the right way or something. A very elongate Thila, with some cavernous overhangs, which were quite cool. One of those gloomy dives, especially at depth, due to the lowish vis (still decent by Sydney standards though). Dive was pretty uneventful until the end, when a couple of Grey Reef Sharks showed up, though by that point we were all low on air and looking to ascend. However, as I got aboard the Dhoni, a dolphin and her calf came next to it. When I jumped in the mother had dived away, but I got a bit of time to snorkel with the calf. That was awesome, though it did poop in my face which was less awesome.
15/07/2025- Hanifaru Bay
Not a dive, just a snorkel, but still thought I would talk about it. Now firstly it was an absolute privilege to see so many Mantas in one place. The vis was a bit limited, but that was of no concern as the Mantas were coming right up to the surface barrel rolling and chain feeding. However, it is probably the most claustrophobic I have ever felt in the water. So many people and mantas made it impossible not to get kicked, headbutted, and at one point clotheslined by a mantas pectoral fin, despite my best efforts to find a clear area. Still what an unforgettable experience.
Midnight Whale Shark encounter.
That night we had a whale shark show up behind the boat, eating plankton attracted to the lights. We ended up swimming with it. Super cool.
16/07/2025- Dhigu Thila
Max Depth: 23 metres
Time: 48 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Similar to Khihindafaru Thila the day before, this was a somewhat eerie and boring dive. A long, narrow Thila, with two more Thilas along from it. I decided to go a bit shallower, towards the top of the Thila. This Thila, along with all the dives I had done so far had an abundance of the normal small tropical fish, with the odd larger snapper and parrotfish. Unfortunately, most of the dives I did in the Maldives lacked healthy hard coral, but were still teeming with colourful soft corals and sponges. By the time we reached the third Thila, I was at 70 bar, and needed to go up soon. Unfortunately, it was at that point that a manta ray showed up. Just my luck. Apparently, after I had sent up my dsmb and ascended, even more mantas showed up. So annoying.
16/07/2025- Dhonfan Bodu Gaa
Max Depth: 24 metres
Time: 49 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
This was an excellent dive. Adjacent to a small island, about 50 metres away, is a circular coral block, rising 15 metres off the bottom. This is utilised as a cleaning station by mantas and turtles. We saw about 10 mantas coming and going from the station, and a really big Green Turtle also taking advantage of the cleaner wrasse's services. When going over to the reef slope of the island, I saw more green turtles and a hawksbill, as well as some reef squid.
17/07/2025- Rasdoo Madifaru
Max Depth: 27 metres
Time: 48 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
An outstanding dive. Unfortunately, it was coloured by the fact that I am deadset stupid and didn't charge either of my cameras, so I could only take a few photos. This dive was different to the other dives I had done so far. It is located on the outside margin of an atoll, rather than the inside of an atoll, and thus the vis was insane, at least 40 metres. The site is a wall that drops into the abyss, with a sandy bowl located over the lip of the wall, which gradually slopes up towards the reef slope of the island. Immediately upon descending, I was greeted by an enormous dogtooth tuna and grey reef sharks. As we went over the lip of the wall, we saw a huge school of Pickhandle Barracuda, as well as more Grey Reef Sharks, Whitetip Reef Sharks and some Napoleon Wrasse. Eventually, we stopped and just watched the sharks and barracuda swirl around above us; it was like an aquarium. As we were ascending, I saw an enormous Napoleon Wrasse and two huge eagle rays. What an awesome dive.
17/07/2025- Maayaa Thila
Max Depth: 29 metres
Time: 52 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
This was a really, really good dive. Thankfully, both of the cameras were charged this time! Maayaa Thila is a typical Thila, a plateau at about 10 metres, with steep slopes full of overhangs, levelling out at about 30 metres. This dive was absolutely stunning. There were tons of Whitetip and Grey Reef Sharks around. At one point, we saw a cloud of sand off the seabed. Upon investigation, I realised it was caused by Whitetip Reef Sharks and trevallies, with the trevallies waiting for the sharks to chase whatever was hiding out of the cavity they were sniffing around in. Once we ascended to the top of the Thila, we saw three octopuses, two seemingly fighting over the third. Also saw a stonefish, a first on a dive for me. Overall, probably the best dive I did on the trip, due to all the aforementioned life, plus stuff like Hawksbill Turtles as well being present.
17/07/2025- Fish Head
Max Depth: 23 metres
Time: 36 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
One of the sketchier dives I have done. Fish Head is a world-renowned dive site due to its Grey Reef Shark action and huge numbers of fish. When we arrived, we were told it would be a medium current. Once we descended, we realised it was anything but. Have encountered currents this strong before in Lord Howe Island and Sydney, but have never had to swim against one like that. Was literally sweating inside my mask. Once we got to the front of the Thila, where the current was hitting it, things got a bit better. However, I was hovering in an overhang at 22 metres when one of the group was lifted to the top of the Thila at 14 metres, which is a bit of a jump. We followed and hooked in, not before I had to catch my buddy, as she didn't get the chance. It was a strange scene, 4 divers plus a whitetip reef shark all tucked in from the current. I saw another Whitetip Reef Shark attempt to make headway against the current, then give up. Tons of marine life aside from the whitetip, lots of grey reef sharks, trevallies, mackerel tuna, but very uncomfortable. When I unhooked to ascend apparently I nearly decapitated a Hawksbill Turtle that was sitting right behind me when I got blasted backwards by the current, just missed it apparently. One of those dives where you are just happy to ascend at the end.
18/07/2025- Fish Head
Max Depth: 26 metres
Time: 57 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Was a bit nervous to dive here after the day before, but this dive was a lot better and had barely any current. We descended on basically the same spot as where the current was hitting the day before. I found a Giant Moray and Peacock Mantis Shrimp pretty quickly, which goes to show how much more you can see when you aren't worried about the current. The top of this Thila has some very interesting rock formations, though it is quite barren of coral. There were lots of Grey Reef Sharks, but they didn't come close. Saw a lot of turtles this dive, all Hawksbills, as well as big schools of Batfish, clouds of glassfish, and tons of predatory fish going after the glassfish. Great dive, a lot better than the dive at Fish Head the day before.
18/07/2025- Hohola Thila
Max Depth- 22 metres
Time: 55 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
This site was a bit of a change of pace from the other dives I had been doing in the Maldives. As opposed to action-packed Thilas lacking in coral, this Thila was covered in healthy hard coral. Some macro stuff like nudibranchs around as well. Not saying there weren't any fish around, tons of glassfish, batfish, a whitetip reef shark, an enormous Giant Moray, and a Titan Triggerfish attacking one of my buddies were the highlights (always nice when it's not you on the receiving end). A nice relaxing dive, good to see some healthy coral.
18/07/2025- Fesdu Faru
Max Depth: 20 metres
Time: 49 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Probably the worst dive of the trip. By this stage, the weather had worsened significantly, so we had to find sheltered spots. This spot is essentially just a reef wall along the outer edge of Fesdu lagoon. Not a whole lot around, some nice coral and a Hawksbill turtle, in less than ideal vis. To be honest, if this were anywhere else in the world, it would be considered a good dive, but the Maldives gives you very high standards.
18/07/2025- Fesdu Lagoon Night Dive
Max Depth: 14 metres
Time: 52 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
This was a really fun dive. We did a night dive right under the main liveaboard. All day we had been seeing Tawny Nurse Sharks congregating around the boat, so I was keen to dive with them. They are such goofy sharks, and I always relish a chance to dive with them. Before the dive, the boat's back floodlights got turned on to attract manta rays. Once a manta showed up, we jumped in. Unfortunately, the manta only came down to our level on the bottom once, but that was fine, as the Tawny Nurse Sharks were putting on a show. They were swimming super close to us, and a bunch of them jammed themselves under a rock to catch a Porcupinefish (which escaped). We also saw a large Pink Whipray.
19/07/2025- Fesdu Wreck
Max Depth: 30 metres
Time: 54 minutes
Temp: 30 degrees
Unfortunately, we couldn't go back to Male Atoll to do the Hulhumale entrance dive with the Tiger Sharks, so we did this wreck dive instead. To be honest, the wreck itself is really nothing special, a medium-sized fishing boat, with no penetration allowed. No marine life of note around the wreck aside from a very large but shy grouper under the bow; I didn't get a good enough look at it to know the exact species. Next to the wreck was a small Thila. This wasn't too bad, some healthy coral and plenty of fish life, including a Whitetip Reef Shark.
19/07/2025- Hafsa Thila
Max Depth: 24 metres
Time: 56 metres
Temp: 30 degrees
This was the last dive of the trip, and a really good send-off. This Thila is known as a nursery for baby Grey Reef Sharks. We saw a shiver of these tiny 50-centimetre sharks right after we descended. As we circumnavigated the Thila, we saw some Whitetip Reef Sharks and a Hawksbill Turtle, which was coming the opposite direction to me, resulting in a brief traffic jam. When we reached the top of the Thila, we saw a huge shiver of baby Grey Reefs, with a few adults and Whitetip Reef Sharks mixed in. We sat at that spot for half an hour, just watching the sharks parade in front of us. It was really cool seeing the size difference between the tiny babies and a couple of heavily pregnant females hanging around, which would have been pushing 2 metres long. At the end, we saw a Fimbriated Moray. Amazing dive to finish the trip, but bittersweet.
29/07/2025- Clifton Gardens
Max Depth- 7 metres
Time: 70 minutes
Temp-16 degrees
Back in Sydney, the water was literally half the temperature I was diving in the Maldives, brutal! Did a classic Clifton dive. The vis was very good for the site, pushing 10 metres. Saw all the normal Clifton critters, seahorses, a big hermit crab, moray eels and tons of mourning cuttlefish. Nice relaxing dive.
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